Post by Linda on Feb 27, 2007 11:31:15 GMT -5
Routine Grooming
Brushing, skin and coat inspections, and baths are all a part of the routine grooming of your guinea pig. Long-haired cavies (the silky and the peruvian) will require special care to keep their hair in good condition. The grooming discussed below is for that of the pet cavy only; a much more meticulous grooming process is followed when preparing a guinea pig for exhibition at a show.
Short-haired cavies
For short-haired cavies, you will want to brush them with a stiff brush, probably once a week. This will brush out any large particles of dirt, as well as prevent the hair from matting. During this time, you will also want to inspect your guinea pig for lice: they show up as tiny, grey-brown worm-like parasites that crawl through the hair very near the surface of the skin. Lice are difficult to spot on cavies with light brown hair.
Long-haired cavies
As with short-haired cavies, the long-haired varieties will need to be brushed and inspected for lice. You also have to decide what to do about the length of their hair: you can opt to either trim the hair periodically, or groom to keep the hair in showable condition. The hair of a peruvian or a silky grows at the rate of about one inch per month. If you opt to trim, you will want to periodically cut to remove mats that have formed in the hair, usually about once every month or two, and keep it at a length short enough so that the guinea pig isn't stepping on its own hair, getting it caught in corners of the cage, or dragging it through urine-soaked litter.
If you opt to keep the hair in show-condition, you will need to use cotton "wraps" to protect and secure their hair. Generally, wraps are placed on the rear sweep and on either side. For more information on the use of wraps, and how to make them and fold them properly, see your local cavy club or talk with a breeder that specializes in raising and showing long-haired cavies.
The Grease Gland
A guinea pig's grease gland is situated at its rear end under the tail stump. It is used for scenting other pigs and marking territory.
In boars particularly, this becomes rather smelly and needs to be cleaned when grooming your pig - and especially before a show as points will defiantly be lost on the judges table for a dirty grease gland.
Swarfega? the versatile, famous green hand cleaning gel which removes oil, grease and grime from the hands of garage mechanics the world over is quite safe to use when cleaning your pig's grease gland as it is kind to human hands and guinea pigs skins. It will soften hardened grease in about 10 minutes and then simply wash off.
Alternatives to Bathing
As a general rule, bathing should only be done when necessary. In the case of guinea pigs, "necessary" means:
Bathing
Baths are typically stressful events for a cavy, and stressed guinea pigs are more susceptible to bacterial and viral infections. Unless your guinea pig simply loves to be bathed (some of them do), you should not do so regularly. Some alternatives to a full bath are presented below:
Hints
If you do decide to bath your guinea pig, here are some helpful hints:
Brushing, skin and coat inspections, and baths are all a part of the routine grooming of your guinea pig. Long-haired cavies (the silky and the peruvian) will require special care to keep their hair in good condition. The grooming discussed below is for that of the pet cavy only; a much more meticulous grooming process is followed when preparing a guinea pig for exhibition at a show.
Short-haired cavies
For short-haired cavies, you will want to brush them with a stiff brush, probably once a week. This will brush out any large particles of dirt, as well as prevent the hair from matting. During this time, you will also want to inspect your guinea pig for lice: they show up as tiny, grey-brown worm-like parasites that crawl through the hair very near the surface of the skin. Lice are difficult to spot on cavies with light brown hair.
Long-haired cavies
As with short-haired cavies, the long-haired varieties will need to be brushed and inspected for lice. You also have to decide what to do about the length of their hair: you can opt to either trim the hair periodically, or groom to keep the hair in showable condition. The hair of a peruvian or a silky grows at the rate of about one inch per month. If you opt to trim, you will want to periodically cut to remove mats that have formed in the hair, usually about once every month or two, and keep it at a length short enough so that the guinea pig isn't stepping on its own hair, getting it caught in corners of the cage, or dragging it through urine-soaked litter.
If you opt to keep the hair in show-condition, you will need to use cotton "wraps" to protect and secure their hair. Generally, wraps are placed on the rear sweep and on either side. For more information on the use of wraps, and how to make them and fold them properly, see your local cavy club or talk with a breeder that specializes in raising and showing long-haired cavies.
The Grease Gland
A guinea pig's grease gland is situated at its rear end under the tail stump. It is used for scenting other pigs and marking territory.
In boars particularly, this becomes rather smelly and needs to be cleaned when grooming your pig - and especially before a show as points will defiantly be lost on the judges table for a dirty grease gland.
Swarfega? the versatile, famous green hand cleaning gel which removes oil, grease and grime from the hands of garage mechanics the world over is quite safe to use when cleaning your pig's grease gland as it is kind to human hands and guinea pigs skins. It will soften hardened grease in about 10 minutes and then simply wash off.
Alternatives to Bathing
As a general rule, bathing should only be done when necessary. In the case of guinea pigs, "necessary" means:
- A medical reason, such as lice, as directed by your veterinarian.
- Shortly before a guinea pig show, if you plan on exhibiting your cavy.
- If your guinea pig manages to get into something particularly smelly or dirty, such as mud.
Bathing
Baths are typically stressful events for a cavy, and stressed guinea pigs are more susceptible to bacterial and viral infections. Unless your guinea pig simply loves to be bathed (some of them do), you should not do so regularly. Some alternatives to a full bath are presented below:
- Powder baths are very popular, and are good for restoring the shine in your guinea pig's coat, as well as removing minor stains and dirty spots. Dusting powders are available for rabbits and guinea pigs, and can pretty much be used interchangeably. Almost all powder bath products are used the same way: you sprinkle the powder onto the hair, and then brush it out completely with a stiff, wire brush. As you brush the powder out, it should pick up any dirt particles and condition the coat.
- For dirty bottoms, hydrogen peroxide is good at removing urine stains.
- For stains in the coat, you can give a "sponge bath", using either a soapy washcloth or a towelette.
Hints
If you do decide to bath your guinea pig, here are some helpful hints:
- For a bath, fill a large tupperware container with an inch of water, and place a washcloth on the bottom so that your guinea pig has some traction. The water should be slightly warm, but not hot.
- Small mammals have very sensitive skin, so powerful shampoos can be harmful. Most owners use a baby shampoo for general baths. If you are using a medicated shampoo (for killing parasites), then pick a shampoo that is safe for kittens (not cats, kittens!) or birds. Generally, you should only use a medicated shampoo when instructed by your vet.
- Lather your guinea pig from the rump up to the back of the neck. Do not get any soap around the face. Be careful when rinsing to make sure no soap runs over their head and into their eyes or face.
- Dry them gently with a towel, and then let them air-dry the rest of the way. If you have a heat-lamp, you can place them under it to keep them from getting chills, but you should make sure the heat lamp isn't too hot. As a general rule, it's bad to blow-dry a guinea pig, as the heat from the dryer can burn their skin. Take care to make sure there are absolutely no drafts where they are drying to prevent chills.
- Try to limit the number of baths you give during the winter, as most homes tend to be cooler and more drafty during this time of year.
- Never use a medicated/chemical shampoo on a nursing mother or on babies under two months of age. Also, don't use these shampoos on pregnant sows unless under the direction of your veterinarian. Some owners recommend that no baths be given at all to pregnant or nursing sows. Again, consult your veterinarian.